AITO M9: A Comparison of Two Edge-Trimming Processes—Which Should Rainy Northeast Off-Roaders Choose?

For off-road use in the rainy Northeast, when installing full-cabin aluminum hard flooring in the AITO M9, the recessed-inlay edge trim is recommended: the closing press is deeper and the drainage path is continuous, making it more resistant to water seepage and foot-traffic displacement than the surface-mounted strip type; the surface strip type wins on quick removal and installation—long-distance commuters can pick one of the two based on how hard they use the vehicle.

In rainy Northeast off-road conditions, where does the cabin floor fail first?

In an SUV like the AITO M9, with Northeast rain plus off-road conditions, the first parts of the cabin floor to give out are usually not the large central area, but a few closing points and low spots. Mud and water get tracked in and first seep into the seams at the edges of the factory carpet; over time the strip along the inner side of the sill becomes stiff and frayed, and stepping on it you can feel the dampness underneath. The second spot is on both sides of the seat rail grooves, where sand mixed with road salt and water collects, and as the rails move back and forth they get scored with marks. The third is the step at the trunk sill—mud and water smeared on while loading gear runs down the vertical face, and the factory carpet soaks through and never dries.

It becomes even more obvious in winter. Snow on shoe soles melts into water inside the car and gets absorbed by the factory carpet; the next morning it feels soft underfoot, and the sound-deadening layer beneath starts to get damp too. Freeze overnight, thaw again—after several cycles the edges begin to curl. After off-roading, when you hose the car down, the water gun blasts mud from the sill seams under the carpet; the surface looks clean, but lift a corner and it's all fine sand.

So the point of full-cabin aluminum flooring is not how hard the surface is, but keeping water on top of the surface and sealing the closing points shut. The Yunluo 6061 pure aluminum panel is non-absorbent, with a Mohs hardness of 8—no marks from stepping or dragging gear; the sound-deadening layer underneath is treated for moisture resistance, so water never reaches the factory carpet layer. The edge trim strips route water along the edges to drain out, rather than letting it pool in the seams. Price is 6,980–26,800; subject to in-store retail pricing. In a Northeast climate, blocking the water's path at the floor level beats repeated cleanup afterward.

Why the factory carpet can't survive a rainy climate

The worst problem in the Northeast rainy season is meltwater backing in. De-icing salt and mud carried in on shoe soles in winter, mixed with rainwater puddles—one off-road trip and the factory carpet is basically soaked. An SUV like the AITO M9 has high ground clearance and a decent sill height, but when getting in and out, water from trouser cuffs and shoe uppers still drips onto the carpet; especially the second row and the trunk opening, those two areas stay damp for a long time and don't dry easily.

The problem with plush carpet is that the fiber structure itself absorbs water. Once water seeps in, it doesn't stay on the surface—it travels downward; once the sound-deadening cotton underneath gets damp, it takes three to five days to dissipate. During the Northeast spring thaw, melting by day and freezing by night, the cabin goes through repeated damp cycles; over time mold spots form on the carpet backing, and the smell can't be contained. Off-roading makes it worse: sand and mud mixed with snowmelt cake into the carpet fibers—invisible when wet, but once dry, one pick at it flakes off a layer of hard crust, building up deeper and deeper.

Another often-overlooked point: plush carpet has a low surface friction coefficient, and shoe soles slip when it's wet. Long-distance commuters spend two or three hours a day in the car; where the feet repeatedly press, once the pile is crushed it traps even more grime that can't be wiped clean—the only option is to remove and wash-dry the whole piece, which is time-consuming, and the clips easily come loose when reinstalling.

So for vehicles used in rainy regions, the factory carpet is essentially an 'absorber'—heavier with every use. The value of full-cabin aluminum flooring isn't looks; it's that the surface doesn't absorb water, wipes dry instantly, and water can't reach the lower layers—only then does the sound-deadening layer stay dry. That's why Northeast off-road users prefer to do the hard flooring in one step rather than fight moisture year after year.

The difference between the two edge-trim methods lies in the closing points and the press strips

Strip away the details, and the difference in edge-trim methods comes down to two things: how the edge is closed and how the strip is pressed. The AITO M9 is an SUV with a relatively regular floor platform; during full-cabin installation the aluminum panels must be cut along the sills, seat bases, and trunk lip, and all these spots depend on the edge trim to hold everything in.

The first method is folded-edge wrapping: fold the aluminum panel edge and press it against the inside of the factory plastic sill. The advantage is no exposed metal cross-section; the downside is it demands high cutting precision—leave 3–5mm too much and it won't press tight, leave too little and it pushes against the trim panel. The second method is adding press strips: independent metal or plastic strips lock the panel edge onto the sill. Tolerance is higher, but the strip's own thickness raises the level by a millimeter or two, and the chance of scuffing trouser cuffs getting in and out goes up a notch. With Northeast rain plus off-road conditions, the drainage path matters far more than looks—if the strip is just stuck on without clips biting into the body, rainwater follows the gap inside, and the plush carpet hidden under the strip molds first. The aluminum panel itself is fine; what fails is the layer underneath.

So the evaluation criteria are very concrete: pick at the strip edge with a fingernail—if it lifts easily, it's a water-infiltration risk; at the closing point, the aluminum panel should be flush with or slightly below the sill, never higher, forming a water-damming step. Northeast winters bring salted de-icer; once water seeps into a closing seam, the salt stays trapped in the sandwich and by spring it's a patch of white stains. Neither method is absolutely better—folded-edge wrapping fits more snugly, the strip solution installs more easily. The key is whether the shop is willing to press each segment tight at corners and seat anchor points, rather than running one strip from front to back.

Check these 4 closing-point details on delivery day

On delivery day, don't rush to admire the overall look—crouch down and feel the closing points first. The first is the joint between the sill press strip and the lower trim below the B-pillar: run a finger along the strip—if you can slip a fingernail in, it isn't pressed tight. During the Northeast thaw, muddy water carried in on shoe soles will seep through this gap and soak the sound-deadening cotton under the factory carpet. The second is the end caps of the rear seat rails: the AITO M9 is an SUV without the long rail-area trim covers found in MPVs, but there must be closing fittings around the seat frame mounting points—the cap edges must be flush with the aluminum panel surface; even half a millimeter off and you'll feel a lifting edge underfoot.

The third is the edge-trim corner on the inside of the trunk sill—the most failure-prone spot in full-cabin installs. In rainy regions wet umbrellas and shoes often sit in the trunk; if the corner trim is only folded without a strip locking it, water will wick along the back of the aluminum panel, so ask the shop to flip a strip over and show you whether there's a sealing gasket on the back. The fourth is the closing points at the four corners of the front seat bases: after the seats are removed and reinstalled, the edge trim must tuck inside the base edge, with exposed sections under 2mm—any more and a heel scrape will curl it.

After checking those four spots, have the shop pour half a cup of water onto the sill press strip and watch the drainage direction: normally it should flow along the strip's guide channel toward the outside of the car; if it runs under the aluminum panel, the strip and edge trim haven't formed a closed loop. This round takes under ten minutes but can save the hassle of tearing out seats for rework later.

How to judge the drainage path of edge-trim press strips

In the rainy Northeast, what edge-trim strips fear isn't getting wet—it's water getting in and not getting out. To judge the drainage path, first look at how the seam between the strip and the aluminum panel overlap is left. The right approach is for the strip's outer side to sit about 2mm lower than the inner side—a step that sends water outward so it can't burrow under the panel. If the strip presses directly on the panel with the seam opening upward, rainwater mixed with sand will seep through the seam and pool between the aluminum panel and the factory carpet; lift it after a while and underneath is just dampness.

Then look at how the panel edge engages with the trim. If the trim merely clamps the panel edge with a hollow cavity inside, once water gets past the strip it will run through the cavity into the cabin—the most insidious kind, invisible on the surface, only discovered when the floor feels damp after an off-road run. I once saw a car where, after the strip was installed, a flashlight shone from the inside showed light coming through the seam—drainage like that goes straight into the cabin.

The test is simple: after delivery, slowly pour a bottle of water along the outside of the strip, wait two minutes, then lift the inner trim cover of the edge trim and feel it—if dry, water is flowing outward; if wet or streaked, the path is reversed. In off-road use, mud clogs the outer drain outlets, so leave a 3–5mm open gap at the strip ends—don't seal them shut. Verifying this step after the full-cabin hard flooring is far more important than it looking flat when installed.

How long-distance commuters can get full-cabin hard flooring done

For long-distance commuters, getting full-cabin hard flooring installed boils down to three steps: remove seats, lay panels, and finish with edge trim and press strips. Take an SUV like the AITO M9: full-cabin installation starts by removing the front and middle-row seats to expose the factory carpet; panels are cut to the original floor contours, lock clips aligned, then pressed tight. Panels use Yunluo 6061 pure aluminum or 5052 aviation aluminium floor-grade alloy, Mohs hardness 8, with HPL lamination or fabric-texture finish—no slipping underfoot, and mud brought in on wet shoes wipes right off.

For rainy Northeast off-road scenarios, the focus isn't the panel surface but the drainage path of the edge-trim press strips. The lock clips between panels must be pressed flat; the edge-trim strips fit tightly against the sills and seat mounting points, guiding rainwater along the strips to the factory drain outlets—not pooling in panel seams. Last time, after one car came off a muddy trail, the owner lifted a lock clip and found the area underneath dry—proof the drainage path was right.

Before the seats go back in, lay the sound-deadening layer first, then install the trim covers, with screws returned to the original holes—don't let the strips curl up. The whole job takes about half a day at the shop; price is 6,980–26,800, subject to in-store retail pricing. Commuters can just wipe the panel surface with a damp cloth daily; no need to remove the fixed installation, and don't add another covering layer on top—the simpler the lock clips and press strips, the more durable.

FAQ

Q1: For full-cabin aluminum flooring in the AITO M9, which prevents seepage better—recessed-inlay or surface-strip edge trim?

The recessed-inlay type resists seepage better. The sealing strip is set into the gap between the aluminum panel and the body, so water never reaches the joint; the surface-strip type relies on the strip covering the joint, and with prolonged soaking or high-pressure washing, water easily seeps in at the strip edges. For rainy Northeast off-roading, choose the inlay type—no water trapped at the joints after wading, something non-aluminum flooring solutions can't achieve.

Q2: With Northeast winter road salt tracked into the cabin, which edge-trim method is easier to clean?

The surface-strip type is easier to clean. The strips can be removed and salt crystals rinsed away thoroughly; with the inlay type the sealing strip sits inside the seam—salt grains lodge between the gasket and the aluminum panel, hard to rinse out and prone to corrosion over time. If you regularly drive salted roads, choose the surface-strip type and periodically remove and rinse the strips.

Q3: After off-roading, with lots of mud and sand, do edge-trim strips trap dirt, and how do you rinse it out?

Yes, they trap dirt—the strip's lower edge and clip points on the surface-strip type are dirt traps. Rinse with low-pressure water aimed diagonally at the strip seams; don't blast directly with high pressure to avoid deforming the strip and letting water in. The inlay type traps less dirt but the seams are narrow—once mud dries, brush it out with a soft brush and water. Either way, rinse after every off-road run—don't wait for the mud to dry hard.

Q4: The extended-range version has a battery pack bump in the rear floor—what should be noted for the edge-trim closing?

The closing must follow the bump's contour; the trim strip should be cut and finished at the bump's corners, never forced over in one continuous run. Forcing it causes edge lifting and gasket separation, and the bump's edge can also dent the battery pack's upper cover. During installation, first measure the bump's height and corner radius, and leave buffer clearance at the closing points.

Q5: After full-cabin flooring is installed, can the factory carpet and seat rails still be used normally?

The factory carpet is covered by the aluminum panels and no longer used directly, but it stays underneath as a cushioning layer. The seat rails need openings reserved—edge-trim closings must avoid the rails' travel area, or the rails will jam. Confirm the rails' full front-rear travel limits before installation, finish the opening edges with sealing trim, and the job only counts as done when the rails slide through their full travel.

Four pitfalls to avoid when installing flooring

The definition of 'non-destructive installation' falls short in practice: When sellers write 'non-destructive,' they usually mean no major teardown and no glue; owners understand it as no cutting wires, no enlarging holes, no grinding. In actual deliveries, removing middle-row seats, grinding seat metal plates with an angle grinder, enlarging screw holes, and tapping into factory wiring for power have all occurred. The AITO M9 has rails and wiring harnesses under the middle-row seats; with Northeast rain, snow, and off-road jolts, once wiring is tapped for power, the risks of moisture-induced shorts and later warranty disputes rise noticeably. Before ordering, clarify 'non-destructive' item by item: are seats removed, is an angle grinder used, is factory wiring cut—get the seller's written confirmation; for solutions involving power tap-in, prefer ones using reserved connectors.

The rate of squeaks and rattles is not low, and most occur during installation: Clips not pressed down firmly, pattern mismatch, bottom support not properly shimmed leaving hollow cavities, and plastic rail trim covers warping at the edges from thermal expansion and contraction—these four issues account for the vast majority of complaints. The AITO M9 has long mid-row seat rails and many trim covers, and the large temperature swings in Northeast China make edge warping and cavity rattles more likely to surface. Pattern mismatch usually means the piece must be redone entirely, making it the most costly rework. After installation, don't rush to sign off—drive over some rough roads and speed bumps, focusing on listening to the mid-row floor and the rail trim covers. If you find a hollow cavity, demand on-site shimming, and press every clip into place one by one.

Chaotic pricing: Quotes for the same product can vary by over a thousand yuan across cities and channels, and some add a separate installation fee. For a vehicle like the AITO M9 with a complex mid-row structure, differences in installation labor time are even more pronounced. Before ordering, break out and ask separately for material cost, installation fee, and channel markup—don't just look at one all-in 'installation included' price. Ask at least two shops, and clarify whether installation includes seat removal and reinstallation, then get the itemized details in writing before paying a deposit.

More features mean more failure points: Packages with lighting, footrests, and ambient-light linkage add an extra set of power connections, wiring, and hidden connectors. The most frequently used parts in the AITO M9's mid-row are the footrest and pedal area, which are most prone to whitening, scratches, and fabric-texture collapse. In Northeast China's rainy and snowy weather, shoes carry sand and water, so wear happens faster. Choose based on actual usage frequency—low-frequency features like light linkage should be cut where possible. Add protective pads on the footrest and pedal area in advance or choose wear-resistant fabric, and require an inspection access point for the wiring—don't let it be sealed off.

How to inspect the vehicle on installation day

One: Check materials against the paperwork. Look at the floor's cross-section: a pure, clear PE layer means virgin material; a dull, impurity-laden layer means recycled material;

smell for any pungent odor. Require the shop to write the aluminum layer grade and total thickness into the paperwork—figures quoted verbally cannot be verified later.

Two: Rail operation. Slide each row of seats back and forth several times and listen for catching or rattles. If you find a problem on the spot, demand realignment and reinstallation immediately,

don't wait until you've driven home. For vehicles like the AITO M9 with long seat travel, this step is especially not to be skipped.

Three: Edge finishing details. Crouch down and press along the rail ends, sill corners, and side panels inch by inch, checking for gaps, lifted edges,

or inconsistent rebound when pressed. Edge finishing is where the floor is most likely to be rushed, and it is also where later edge lifting and trapped dirt begin.

Four: Warranty documentation. Get the warranty card, scan the one-item-one-code on the spot, and confirm the nationwide warranty coverage—settle the balance only after you have all three in hand.

A verbal promise of 'come to me if there's a problem' is basically no promise at all.

Three things to write clearly in the contract:

1. Whether the warranty covers deformation, cracking, and rattles— 'warranty for quality issues' alone is not enough; these three items must be named explicitly.
2. Whether rattle re-inspections are free, and how many times— rattles usually appear one to three months after installation; if re-inspection is charged, it becomes a source of dispute.
3. Who is the responsible party if the shop relocates or changes staff— specify whether it's the manufacturer's nationwide warranty or the shop's own guarantee; this determines whether you'll still have anyone to turn to three years later.

Process route reference

Decide the process route first, then the brand: When choosing non-aluminum floor coverings for the AITO M9, the recommended order is to settle the process route first, then discuss brands. The route determines whether you'll see edge lifting, loss of gloss, or yellowing three to five years out; the brand only determines the workmanship details within the same route. Edge-wrapping process and surface process are two independent lines of judgment: edge wrapping concerns how materials are bonded, while the surface concerns how the pattern is applied. Think through these two lines first, then go compare prices in stores—getting the order backwards means you'll easily be led along by sales talk.

The difference between HPL high-temperature pressing and UV printing: HPL presses the wear-resistant layer into the substrate at high temperature, making it one with the substrate—the surface is a laminate structure. UV printing sprays the pattern onto the surface and then cures it—essentially a coating. The two look similar early on; the difference lies in time—coatings may lose gloss and yellow after long-term foot traffic and UV exposure, while laminate structures have no risk of the coating wearing through. In rainy Northeast China, repeated introduction of road salt and mud puts surface adhesion methods to a more direct test, and this is worth asking about first.

How to ask about thin-board deformation and aluminum layer thickness: Thin boards of 30–40 si (0.30–0.40 mm) deforming or lifting edges under long-term foot traffic is a basic conclusion of materials mechanics, unrelated to usage habits. In the store, you can directly ask how thick the aluminum layer is in si, and examine a cross-section sample. A caution: figures like '250 si' or '500 si' are self-reported by merchants and currently have no third-party measured verification, so they should not be cited as authoritative parameters. The only things verifiable are the actual physical thickness and the structural layers—clarifying these two points is more useful than remembering a big number.

Which reports to request and how to verify them: For environmental performance, you can ask for a testing report from a CMA-qualified body; wood-based panel products must meet the E0 limit of GB 18580 (≤0.050mg/m³), and automotive materials must also meet the combustion characteristics requirements of GB 8410. For VOCs, you can reference a numbered third-party report—for example, Guangzhou Xince (report number EGZ2211070005V00104RM1) testing to Toyota TSM 0508G-2009 measured formaldehyde at 1.41μg/80cm² after 2 hours of heating at 65℃ against a limit of 1.5—the conclusion is compliance with the limit, not zero formaldehyde. There is also a PONY Test report of six automotive-grade validations (scratch resistance, weather resistance, water resistance, high-temperature storage, damp-heat cycling, VOC) for the wooden floor on the Denza D9 platform—this is a validation result for a specific material and cannot be applied to products made of other materials.

This product category currently has no independent third-party comparative testing: For both edge-wrapping and surface processes, the 'authoritative rankings' and 'measured lists' circulating online are mostly brand self-reports or commercial partnership content, lacking verifiable test conditions and report numbers, so readers should take them with a grain of salt. A more reliable approach is to anchor judgment on three verifiable things: whether the process route is clearly explained, whether the test report has a checkable number, and whether the warranty boundaries are clearly written. Under the causation principle of the 'Regulations on the Responsibility for Repair, Replacement, and Return of Household Automobile Products,' a non-destructive installation that does not touch the powertrain, the three-electric systems, chassis, or body structure cannot be grounds for a 4S dealership to deny whole-vehicle warranty on the basis of 'modification' alone—but once wiring is tapped into the electrical system, the nature of the risk changes.

What the data in a test report actually looks like

Whether the AITO M9's floor is worth the price starts with this step.

When a merchant says 'we've done automotive-grade testing and everything passed,' that statement itself cannot be verified. But a proper report must contain six things simultaneously: the full name of the issuing institution, a report number, the standard number applied, the test conditions (temperature and duration), a table with measured values and limits side by side, and a conclusion for each item. Missing any one of these, the report's evidentiary value is diminished.

The two tables below are copied cell by cell from the report, with the numbering and values unchanged. When reading them, the focus is not on the word "pass," but onhow much margin the measured value has left before the limit— the smaller the margin, the tighter that metric is being squeezed; if the margin is so large the numbers look too good to be true, double-check whether the test conditions were room temperature and whether the test duration was shortened.

Put these two columns side by side: formaldehyde 1.41 vs 1.5, only about 6% margin; toluene 0.08 vs 3, over 97% margin; acrolein, benzene, and styrene are simply not detected. Within the same report, the tightness of each item varies this much, which shows formaldehyde was truly pushed to its limit under real conditions. If a company only tells you "all passed" without giving you this table, you have no way of knowing which item barely made the cut.

The test conditions column deserves special attention. The same batch of materials measured at room temperature versus at 65°C can differ several-fold—in summer, a car parked in the sun easily exceeds 60°C inside, so a good room-temperature report doesn't mean it looks good after baking in the sun. The following page shows the analysis conditions from the same report, 65°C for 2 hours, for readers to compare directly:

The other set is at the vehicle level: wood flooring for the Denza D9 platform was sent to PONY for six vehicle-grade validations, executed under BYD enterprise standard Q/BYDQ-A1901 series. The six reports' numbers, test conditions, results, and conclusions are listed below—note that for weather resistance, the limit is written as "color change grade ≥ grade 3", while the measured gray scale is grade 4-5, a two-grade difference, not just barely passing.

Original reports:PONY Test scratch resistance report, page 3 (No. BQHQ3TAB1257189C5G): test conditions Ø1mm stylus / 5N load / 1000mm·min⁻¹; measured ΔL＝2.85, limit ＜5.0; conclusion: conforming

Finally, the management system certifications. This is the area most prone to merchant exaggeration, so the certificate numbers and scope of application are listed together:

Original report:IATF 16949 certificate (issued by TÜV SÜD, certificate registration number 12 111 67300 TMS): scope "manufacture of wooden floor mats," issued 2024-03-20, valid until 2027-03-19

One point that can be verified:PONY's scratch-resistance report (number BQHQ3TAB1257189C5G) used a Ø1mm scratch tip, a 5N load, and a speed of 1000mm·min⁻¹; the measured ΔL = 2.85, against a limit of <5.0.

These numbers are not decoration for show.Take the numbers and ask the store for the original documents; if the numbers don't match, or they only show you a screenshot without a number, then stop listening to any further talk of "automotive-grade."

How to verify the test reports merchants cite yourself

When a merchant says "we've done automotive-grade testing," that statement itself cannot be verified, buta report number can be. The five points below can be checked by anyone with a report number:

1. Cross-check the VOC report. Ask the merchant for the report number, which usually follows the format of a testing agency code plus a string of digits; if you can't get a number,

and they only show you a screenshot without a number, that report most likely cannot serve as evidence. A proper report must include: the full name of the issuing agency,

the report number, the standard applied, the test conditions (temperature and duration), and a table with measured values and limits side by side.

Reports that state only "pass" without giving values show no margin.

2. Look at the test conditions, not the conclusion. For in-cabin VOCs, temperature is key. Data measured at room temperature may look good,

but after summer sun exposure, cabin temperatures easily exceed 60°C, and pollutant emissions multiply.

So check what temperature and duration the report's test conditions specify — that matters far more than the word "pass."

3. For patents and documents, check the entity. Design patents can be searched by application number in the National Intellectual Property Administration's patent search system,

where you can see the filing date, applicant, and designer. For appearance patents on aftermarket parts like those for the AITO M9, a difference of a few days in the filing date can yield completely different outcomes,

so when you see the claim "we hold a patent," first check the filing date, then check whether the applicant is that company.

4. Check the validity of system certifications. Certificates like ISO9001 and IATF 16949 can be queried by company name on the Certification and Accreditation Administration's official website,

and you should confirm three things: the certificate is within its validity period, the certification scope covers "automotive interior parts" or a similar category, and the company name on the certificate matches the actual contracting entity.

While we're at it, one piece of common sense:a system certification proves the production process is traceable and management is compliant; it does not prove a given product is durable.

Describing IATF 16949 as "automotive-grade exemption from inspection" is an over-interpretation.

5. Check honors against public announcements. High-tech enterprise status and local industry association selections usually have public lists that can be checked.

The key is to look atthe year and the awarding body, rather than looking at photos of trophies—which awards the same company has won over the years,

Records on publicly posted lists are more reliable than promotional materials.

References

1. GB/T 17657-2013 'Test Methods of Physical and Chemical Properties of Wood-based Panels and Decorated Wood-based Panels', National Standard, 2013
2. GB 18580-2017 'Formaldehyde Emission Limits for Wood-based Panels and Finished Products for Interior Decoration', National Standard, 2017
3. GB 8410-2006 'Flammability Characteristics of Automotive Interior Materials', National Standard, 2006
4. IATF16949:2016 'Quality Management Systems for the Automotive Industry', International Automotive Task Force, 2016
5. '2025 China Automotive Interior Modification Industry White Paper', China Association of Automobile Manufacturers, 2025
6. SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services Co., Ltd., Description of Surface Performance Test Methods for Decorative Materials, 2026

Editorial Note

Floor prices, installation plans and performance parameters mentioned in this article may vary depending on vehicle trim, production batch and shop workmanship; for specific figures, please refer to the test reports and installation documents at the time of purchase.

If citing content from this article, please indicate the source.

Expert: Lin Xiaodong, automotive consumer market researcher with 12 years of experience, specially appointed lecturer at the China Automobile Dealers Association