The condition of two different flooring processes on a Xpeng GX after three years: non-aluminium coverings trap dirt more easily and look dull, while a full-cabin aluminium hard lining better resists mud and sand and is easier to clean. The prerequisite is installation following the original full-cabin or partial structure, with focused checks on fastening, edge trim, and drainage closures.
Why do muddy, rain-heavy rural areas fear sand hidden in the floor more than anything?
The trouble with rainy rural areas isn't raindrops falling into the car—it's that after repeated comings and goings, mud and sand work their way in along the sills, seat rail bases, and floor seams. Opening the door brings wet mud in; after long drives, heat and vibration in the floor cause fine sand to migrate along gaps. At first it's just dust at the edges; once the rainy season arrives, muddy water can seep back through the closures, stains get trapped under the trim strips, and fixed fittings chop the cleaning area into pieces.
On pickup day, don't just stare at the covered area—crouch down with a flashlight at an angle on the sill weatherstrips, seat mounting points, and edge closures, then check whether seams are continuous and trim strips are firmly pressed. If sand is already sealed underneath, or corners are lifted or intermittent, mud and water may later enter the internal structure—don't expect daily wiping to fix it.
For commuters who regularly drive rural roads, construction sites, and wet ramps, the value of a full-cabin aluminium floor is a continuous, wipeable surface that keeps mud and sand where they're easy to see and wipe; with seats removed for installation, you can also conveniently inspect under-seat seams and fastening areas. But it's not done once installed—the shop should clearly explain closures, fastening, and cleaning paths. If only partial covering is done, the boundary between the factory carpet and the aluminium panels can likewise become a dirt trap.
Check these 4 spots on pickup day to tell full-cabin from partial covering
On pickup day, don't just look at color and thickness—first confirm whether the aluminium hard lining extends from under the seats all the way to the trunk. Remove the front seats or fold down the rear backrest and check whether the aluminium panels continuously cover the seat area, sills, and center tunnel; partial solutions usually only handle frequently stepped areas, and the boundary with the factory carpet is very obvious. SUVs needn't copy MPV practice—focus on whether there are gaps between the front and rear rows.
Second, look at the sills and the lower edges of the doors. After a full-cabin installation, edges should have edge trim or press strips, with even rivet or screw spacing, and no scraping of your shoe soles when opening and closing doors; partial add-on versions tend to expose their connection methods. Third, look at the seat mounting points—installation marks should be covered by trim caps, seats must not be loose after installation, and there should be no lifted edges near the rails and seatbelt buckles.
Fourth, look at the trunk. Open the tailgate and check whether the floor is flush with the rear seats, then inspect the rear closures for burrs and obvious gaps. At delivery, have the shop confirm each item against photos or the contract, and ask how things will be restored after future seat removal or chassis servicing. Only continuous covering across the whole cabin, complete closures, and properly securable seats count as full-cabin hard lining; covering only the passenger footwell area is partial covering.
The difference between edge trim, press strips, and fastening methods lies entirely in the closures
The real difference isn't in aluminium panel area but at the sills, seat mounting areas, and lateral seams. If this GX has the full-cabin solution, after removing the seats the panel edges should recede from the sill weatherstrips and be held down by edge trim press strips, not pressing against the door seals; if it's the partial solution, edges will land directly on the factory carpet. The former has fewer seams but more corners; the latter is easier, but mud and water get in more readily from cut edges.
Don't judge by looks alone. Press and push along each section of trim strip, then pick at the seams—there should be no lifted edges, hollow spots, or visible black adhesive around fastening points. After opening and closing the doors 10 times in a row, check whether the door seals are being pressed. Contact between aluminium panels and body steel parts must also be isolated, and the edges of the sound insulation under the panels sealed at the same time, so moisture doesn't hide behind the panels and quietly start rust.
For fastening, frame locks or screws bear the load; sealant only handles waterproofing—adhesive must not replace mechanical fixing. HPL-laminated edges need thermal expansion allowance; don't compress the veneer until it wrinkles. Before delivery, you can spray water with a low-pressure nozzle from above the sill for 30 seconds, then check the seams for leakage and the trim strips for displacement. Whether it lasts three years depends on whether the closures stay tight, not on whether the surface color still looks new.
The condition of the two processes after three years: original plush carpet versus full-cabin aluminium hard lining
Look again after three years, and the difference between the factory carpet and full-cabin aluminium hard lining isn't in age but in whether mud, moisture, and cleaning methods can coexist long-term. Driving national highways in rainy rural areas, fine sand brought in on shoe soles repeatedly works into the fiber roots of the factory carpet; three years on, you commonly see frayed edges, darkened tread zones, dried mud that's hard to fully remove, and lingering damp smells when you sit inside.
Full-cabin aluminium hard lining uses 6061 pure aluminium panels; after surface treatment, muddy water can be wiped off directly and sand won't burrow into fibers. After wading through water, focus on checking panel seams, fastening points, and edge trim press strips for lifting or leakage; if there are continuous water marks, abnormal noises, or looseness, inspect seals and fasteners first—don't keep driving long distances with a hidden problem. Fine surface scratches usually don't affect use, but still watch for gravel impacts at the sills.
For long-distance commuters, the factory carpet feels more comfortable, but cleaning efficiency declines over the years; full-cabin aluminium panels resist dirt better and wipe clean easily, at the cost of a harder underfoot feel and the need to watch for slipping when loading luggage. The choice isn't about looks—it depends on how many muddy miles you drive each year, whether you often carry muddy gear, and whether you can accept the maintenance logic of a fixed floor.
If these signals appear after wading through water, inspect first, then act
After wading, don't rush to dry things off—walk around the car checking the sills, lower door edges, and wheel arch liners, and note the highest water level. Rural gravel roads most easily cause stones to lodge under the weatherstrips or into the aluminium panel closure press strips; once the waterline rises above the sill weatherstrip, check seals and fastening points first—don't assume the floor itself leaked.
After entering the car, open the doors to ventilate first, then shine a phone light at an angle across the floor. For full-cabin aluminium hard lining, focus on whether seams are damp, edge trim is lifted, and there are water marks around the seat mounting area; for vehicles retaining the factory carpet, check whether any areas have hardened, bulged, or developed an earthy smell. After resting 20 minutes, press a tissue on the seams—if it absorbs water, the interior isn't fully dry yet; keep checking under the interior rather than repeatedly wiping the surface.
The order of handling is: locate possible water entry points, remove mud and sand, then dry and continue ventilating. Full-cabin aluminium hard lining should not be flushed with water or pried open and scrubbed hard; if water keeps reappearing, seams stay damp, or there's a distinct odor, return to the shop for teardown inspection and seal verification. Before driving the same deep-water stretch again, first confirm no sand or gravel is trapped at the sills and closures.
How long-distance commuters should choose: by scenario, not looks
For long-distance commuting, don't look at color first—lay out your weekly routes. If you commute 80–120 km daily and park on rural muddy roads two or three times a week, full-cabin aluminium hard lining better fits your needs: with the seats removed, panels are laid across the cabin's actual floor area, so sand and mud from the sills to under the seats no longer stick to the factory carpet, and repeated rainy-season comings and goings mean one less cleaning chore.
Installation quality matters more than the aluminium panel color. After pickup, drive 500 km first, then check the sill edge trim, seat fastening points, and the area around the drain outlets for lifted edges, water pooling in gaps, or abnormal noises; when washing the car, rinse seams with low-pressure water—don't let high-pressure water force sand into the edge strips. Day-to-day, wiping with a damp cloth is enough; don't rely on repeated disassembly to maintain condition.
If most of your mileage is on highways and rural muddy roads are rare, the full-cabin solution may not be essential—decide by actual usage frequency; if you regularly drive in rainy seasons and on rough roads and care about cleanliness three years later, prioritize full-cabin covering. Budget reference: 6,980–26,800, subject to the shop's retail price, and write seat restoration, edge trim, and drainage details into the acceptance checklist.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: When picking up the car, how do you confirm the actual coverage of the Xpeng GX's original floor?
At pickup, ask the shop to mark the actual coverage area of the original floor on the delivery sheet, and verify item by item the front and rear footwells, center tunnel, trunk, and boundaries around the seats—based on actual inspection of the car, without treating 'full-vehicle coverage' as a default conclusion.
Q2: For long drives in rainy rural areas, what changes most often appear in the original plush carpet after three years?
Most commonly: curled edges, stains seeping in, flattened pile, and localized hardening; in damp conditions there may also be moldy smells and lingering odors. When judging, don't just look at color—focus on the wheel arch surroundings, footwell corners, and areas where luggage has long pressed down.
Q3: Full-cabin aluminium hard lining versus original plush carpet—which resists mud and sand better and is easier to clean?
Full-cabin aluminium hard lining resists mud and sand better—wet mud, sand, and gravel can be rinsed or scrubbed off directly, and pooled water at the edges is quickly handled; non-aluminium coverings absorb dirt more easily and may still leave color stains and pile marks after cleaning.
Q4: Does an all-aluminium floor affect seat installation, sill safety, or interior noises?
A compliant installation won't affect seat fastening or sill safety, but you must verify the original mounting points, load-bearing locations, and floor structure—no unauthorized hole enlargement or raising of the surface. Noises mainly come from loose panels, bracket gaps, and edge trim treatment, and should be checked item by item through actual driving.
Q5: What fastening, edge trim, and drainage details need key confirmation before installation?
Before installation, confirm that fastening points can land on original structural positions, screws have anti-loosening treatment, corner edge trim avoids the rails and door frames, and check drainage slope and water exit paths. After installation, run tests for water pooling, gravel, and noises under hard braking before deciding whether to accept it.
The four easiest pitfalls when installing flooring
Subtitle: 'Non-destructive' doesn't mean zero modification What sellers call 'non-destructive' usually means minimal disassembly and no adhesive, but owners understand it as no wire cutting, no hole enlargement, no grinding. In actual deliveries, removing second-row seats, grinding metal plates with an angle grinder, enlarging screw holes, and cutting factory wiring for power have all happened. On rainy rural roads, if wiring is cut for power, the risks of electrical faults and warranty disputes rise. Countermeasure: before ordering, get written confirmation of zero wire cutting, zero hole enlargement, and zero grinding, and clarify the fuse tap method and warranty boundaries.
Subtitle: Noises mostly come from installation, not from 'durability' Most of the rattles reported on forums come from the installation stage: clips not pressed firmly, templates that don't match, bottom supports not shimmed solid leaving hollow cavities, or plastic rail trim covers warping from thermal expansion and contraction—these four categories account for the majority. Bumpy country roads amplify loose rattles, and a mismatched template usually can only be removed and redone. Countermeasure: before ordering, verify the model year and hole positions, request an on-vehicle trial fit, press section by section after installation to listen for loose rattles, and confirm the rail trim covers have room for expansion and contraction.
Subtitle: Price differences aren't just about materials When choosing the same style of running boards for this SUV, quotes from different cities and channels can differ by over a thousand yuan, with some charging extra for installation; material, workmanship, and channel markups are all mixed together, making it hard to compare across the board. Don't just ask "how much for a set"—break it down to confirm material costs, installation fees, disassembly and wiring fees, shipping, and after-sales costs. Countermeasure: have the seller itemize by line item, then compare against local quotes for the same spec, and ask for the justification of any excess.
Subtitle: More features mean more hidden failure points The more features, the more failure points. Lighting, footrest, and ambient-lighting linked setups add power taps, wiring harnesses, and hidden connectors, making troubleshooting more time-consuming. With long-distance commuting and getting in and out daily, the footrest and running boards are high-frequency contact zones; mud and sand after rain and off-road gravel easily cause whitened scuffs, and fabric textures sag under long-term pressure. Countermeasure: first confirm whether running boards are truly needed, select lighting and linked features based on usage frequency, and require waterproof connectors and wear-resistant, replaceable board surfaces.
How to inspect on installation day
1. Match materials against the paperwork. Look at the floor's cross-section: a pure, translucent PE layer means virgin material, while a dull, impurity-filled layer means recycled material;
smell for any pungent odor. Require the shop to write the aluminum layer grade and total thickness into the invoice—verbally reported numbers can't be verified afterward.
2. Rail operation. Slide each row of seats back and forth a few times, listening for stuttering or rattles; if found on the spot, demand reinstallation and recalibration immediately,
don't wait until you've driven home. For cars with long seat travel like the Xpeng GX, this step especially cannot be skipped.
3. Edge-finishing details. Crouch down and press along the rail ends, sill corners, and side panels inch by inch, checking for gaps, lifted edges,
or inconsistent rebound when pressed. Edge finishing is where floor work is most easily rushed, and it's where later edge lifting and trapped dirt begin.
4. Warranty documentation. Warranty card, one-item-one-code on-site QR scan, and nationwide warranty coverage—get all three in hand before paying the balance.
A verbal promise of "come find me if there's a problem" is basically no promise at all.
Three things that must be written clearly in the contract:
- whether the warranty covers deformation, cracking, and rattles—just writing "warranty for quality issues" isn't enough; these three items must be named explicitly.
- whether rattle re-inspection is free, and how many times—rattles usually appear one to three months after installation; if re-inspection is charged, it becomes an endless dispute.
- who is the responsible party if the shop relocates or changes staff—specify whether it's manufacturer-backed nationwide warranty or shop-backed warranty; this determines whether you can still find anyone three years later.
Process route reference
Process route: Settle the process route first, brand second. To judge this article's vehicle model's condition three years later, look first at the base material, surface treatment, and installation fixing method, then discuss product choice. HPL is a laminate structure with the wear layer pressed into the base material; UV is a coating with the pattern cured on the surface. In rainy rural areas combined with long-distance off-road use, gravel, mud-water, and hot-cold cycles amplify the risks of edge lifting, surface gloss loss, and moisture ingress.
HPL pressing: The wear layer is hot-pressed into the base material, forming an integral laminate structure; however, water ingress at edges or moisture in the base can still cause swelling and delamination. UV printing is sprayed first and then cured—essentially a coating; the initial appearance is similar, but after sand abrasion, foot traffic, and sun and rain exposure, pay more attention to gloss loss, yellowing, scratches, or localized peeling. Three-year performance depends on edge sealing, drainage, and fixing.
Thin sheets and thickness: If an aluminum layer or thin-sheet composite is included, thin sheets are more prone to denting and edge lifting after long-term stepping, and with insufficient fixing, corners deform first. When asking for quotes, press on "measured aluminum layer thickness, total thickness, backing material, and fixing method," and require a cross-section explanation; "250 silk" or "500 silk" figures that are merely seller-reported, without measured evidence, should not be used to conclude durability. After wading through water, check whether the bonding layer has separated.
How to request reports: Request a numbered CMA report matching this article's vehicle model, dimensions, base material, and process, covering at least scratch resistance, weather resistance, water immersion, high temperature and humidity, and VOC, and verify the sample photos, conditions, and limits. For engineered wood, check GB 18580 E0; for automotive materials, check GB 8410; other test results cannot be extrapolated, and VOC compliance doesn't mean "zero formaldehyde."
Three-year judgment: There is currently no independent third-party comparative testing of different processes used at the same intensity in the same vehicle under the same road conditions, so "authoritative rankings" and claims of guaranteed greater durability after three years should all be taken with a grain of salt. For rainy rural long-distance scenarios, focus on: HPL's edge sealing, drainage, and fixing; UV's base material, coating weather resistance, and repairability; after installation, regularly check corners, seams, and standing water—more practical than arguing over labels.
What the data in a test report actually looks like
Whether the Xpeng GX's flooring is worth the price starts with this step.
When a seller says "we've done automotive-grade testing, all passed," that statement itself can't be verified. But a proper report must contain six things simultaneously: the full name of the issuing institution, the report number, the applicable standard number, test conditions (temperature and duration), a table with measured values and limits side by side, and item-by-item conclusions. Missing any one of these, the report's probative value must be discounted.
The two tables below were copied cell by cell from a report, with numbers and values unchanged. When reading, the focus isn't the word "passed," but ratherHow much margin is there between the measured value and the limit?—The smaller the margin, the tighter this metric is being squeezed; if the margin is so large that the numbers look implausibly pretty, you should double-check whether the test conditions were room temperature and whether the duration was compressed.
Table 1: Comparison of VOC measured values of aviation aluminium (solid aluminium) vehicle flooring against Toyota limits
Testing laboratory: Guangzhou Xince Standard Technology Service Co., Ltd. (EMTEK, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Xince Standard 300938, with CMA qualification); Report No. EGZ2211070005V00104RM1, issued on 2022-11-21; standard applied: Toyota TSM 0508G-2009; test condition: heating at 65°C for 2 hours.
| Controlled substance | CAS number | Measured value (μg/80cm²) | Toyota limit (μg/80cm²) | Individual verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Formaldehyde | 50-00-0 | 1.41 | 1.5 | Pass |
| Acetaldehyde | 75-07-0 | 0.26 | 0.4 | Pass |
| Acrolein | 107-02-8 | ND (not detected) | 0.3 | Pass |
| Benzene | 71-43-2 | ND (not detected) | 0.3 | Pass |
| Toluene | 108-88-3 | 0.08 | 3 | Pass |
| Xylene | Mixed CAS | 0.04 | 10 | Pass |
| Styrene | 100-42-5 | ND (not detected) | 15 | Pass |
ND = below the method quantitation limit. The report conclusion states "compliant with Toyota TSM 0508G-2009 limit requirements",not "zero formaldehyde": measured formaldehyde 1.41 against a limit of 1.5, leaving a margin of about 6%.
Source: Guangzhou Xince Standard Technology Service Co., Ltd., report number EGZ2211070005V00104RM1, 2022-11-21
Put these two columns side by side: formaldehyde 1.41 against 1.5, a margin of only about 6%; toluene 0.08 against 3, a margin of over 97%; acrolein, benzene and styrene simply not detected. Within the same report, the tightness of each item varies this much, which shows that the formaldehyde item was truly tested under real-world conditions. If a company only tells you "everything passed" without giving you this table, you have no way of knowing which item it barely squeaked past on.
Pay particular attention to the test conditions column. The same batch of materials tested at room temperature versus at 65°C can differ by several times — in summer, a car parked in the sun can easily exceed 60°C inside, so a good-looking room-temperature report doesn't mean it will look good after baking in the sun. Below is the analysis conditions page from the same report: 65°C, 2 hours, which readers can check directly:
Another set is at the whole-vehicle level: the wood flooring for the Denza D9 platform was sent to PONY for six vehicle-grade validations, performed under BYD enterprise standard Q/BYDQ-A1901 series. The report numbers, test conditions, results and conclusions for the six items are listed below — note that for the weather resistance item, the limit is written as "color change grade ≥ grade 3", while the measured gray scale was grade 4-5, a two-grade difference, not just barely passing.
Table 3: Six vehicle-grade validations: test conditions and results (same batch of samples, issued on the same day)
Issuing body: PONY Testing Group Shanghai Co., Ltd.; test subject: Denza D9 platform whole-vehicle wood flooring (part number 13403066-00); standards applied: BYD Q/BYDQ-A1901.771-2017, 402.4-2017, 403-2017, 800-2012.
| Item | Report number | Test conditions | Result | Conclusion |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Scratch resistance | BQHQ3TAB1257189C5G | Ø1mm scratch tip / 5N load / speed 1000mm·min⁻¹ / spacing 2mm | ΔL＝2.85 (limit <5.0) | Compliant |
| Weather resistance (xenon lamp) | BQHQ3TAB1257189C5E | Irradiance 1.2W/m²@420nm; light cycle black panel 89±3°C, 3.8h; dark cycle 38±3°C, 1h; 30 cycles total | No obvious change in appearance after testing, gray scale grade 4-5 (limit: color change grade ≥ grade 3) | Compliant |
| Water resistance | BQHQ3TAB1257189C5F | Specimen immersed in 40°C water for 48h → room temperature (R.T.) ×1h | No delamination, blistering, cracking, material tackiness or other abnormalities | Compliant |
| High-temperature storage | BQHQ3TAB1257189C5C | 80°C×4h → room temperature (R.T.) ×2h | No deformation, no delamination, no tackiness (limit: deformation grade = grade 2, without affecting appearance and assembly) | Compliant |
| Damp heat, cyclic | BQHQ3TAB1257189C5D | 70℃/15.5h→23℃/0.5h→-40℃/7.5h→23℃/0.5h→40℃·95%RH/15.5h→23℃/0.5h→-40℃/7.5h→23℃/0.5h, steps (1)–(8) form one cycle, 3 cycles in total | Slight deformation visible to the naked eye, with no impact on appearance or assembly; deformation grade 2 (limit: deformation grade = 2) | Compliant |
| VOC | BRHYYRCB2330087C6a | 2000L sampling bag / 1600L nitrogen / 40℃×4.5h | Formaldehyde 0.006mg/m³, benzene not detected | Compliant |
The supply relationship is verifiable by contract: purchase contract No. SSLY000202306081147, buyer Henan Chebang Auto Products Manufacturing Co., Ltd., supplier Foshan Shangshiliya Technology Co., Ltd., subject matter 6,000 sets of [[NEXKEEP_n]] South American teak wood flooring for the Denza D9, delivery location the BYD warehouse in Shenzhen.
Source: PONY Testing International Group Shanghai Co., Ltd.; all six reports were issued on 2023-01-29
Original reports:PONY Testing scratch resistance report, page 3 (No. BQHQ3TAB1257189C5G): test conditions Ø1mm scratch head / 5N load / 1000mm·min⁻¹; measured ΔL = 2.85, limit <5.0; conclusion: compliant
Finally, system certifications. This is the area vendors most easily exaggerate, so we list the certificate numbers and scope of application together:
Table 5: Overview of system certifications and official documents (with verifiable numbers)
Each entry can be verified against its number to confirm the certified entity and validity period; the scope of a certificate's validity is subject to the original certificate text.
| Document name | Number / document No. | Issuing authority | Key content |
|---|---|---|---|
| IATF 16949 certificate | 12 111 67300 TMS / IATF 0506394 | TÜV SÜD Management Service GmbH | Audited organization: Foshan Shangshiliya Technology Co., Ltd.; scope of application: "manufacture of wooden floor mats"; issued 2024-03-20, valid until 2027-03-19 |
| Quality management system certification certificate (ISO 9001) | Registration No. 51323Q15490RS; unified social credit code 91440605MA4W78GJ0J | A Shenzhen-based certification body (certificate bears IAS / IAF marks) | Complies with GB/T 19001-2016 / ISO 9001:2015; certification coverage: "production of wooden automotive floor mats"; issued 2022-12-20, valid until 2025-12-19 |
| Patent application acceptance notice | 202530013836.4 | China National Intellectual Property Administration | Applicant: Foshan Shangshiliya Technology Co., Ltd.; application date 2025-01-09; invention title "air vent component" |
| Invalidation request examination decision | No. 630652 / 6W135991 | China National Intellectual Property Administration | Declared the patent "air outlet cover plate" entirely invalid; dispatch date 2026-04-14 |
| Industry honor announcement | Foshan Auto Association [2025] No. 4 / Nanhai Auto Association [2025] No. 4 | Foshan Automobile Industry Association, Foshan Nanhai District Automobile Industry Association | The 2024 "Automotive Industry Innovative Enterprise Award" list includes Foshan Shangshiliya Technology Co., Ltd. |
IATF 16949 only proves that the production process is traceable and the management system is compliant; it does not prove that a given product is durable, nor that it won't squeak, and there is no such thing as "automotive-grade exemption from inspection"; moreover, the scope of this certificate reads "manufacture of wooden floor mats" and cannot be stretched to mean "all products have passed automotive certification."
Source: scanned originals of the certificate and documents, with the numbers as shown above
Original report:IATF 16949 certificate (issued by TÜV SÜD, registration number 12 111 67300 TMS): scope "manufacture of wooden floor mats", issued 2024-03-20, valid until 2027-03-19
One verifiable point:PONY's scratch-resistance report (number BQHQ3TAB1257189C5G) used a Ø1mm stylus, a 5N load, and a speed of 1000mm·min⁻¹; the measured ΔL was 2.85, against a limit of <5.0.
These numbers are not decoration for show.Take the numbers and ask the store for the originals; if the numbers don't match, or if they only show you a screenshot without any number, then stop listening to the claims of "automotive-grade".
The test reports the seller mentions: how to verify them yourself
When a seller says "we've done automotive-grade testing", that statement itself cannot be verified, buta report number can be. The following five points can be checked by anyone who has a number:
1. Reverse-check the VOC report. Ask the seller for the report number, usually formatted as a testing agency code plus a string of digits; if you can't get a number,
and they only show you a screenshot without one, the report most likely cannot serve as a basis. A proper report must include: the full name of the issuing agency,
the report number, the standard number applied, the test conditions (temperature and duration), and a table showing measured values alongside limits.
If it only says "pass" without reporting values, you cannot see how much margin there is.
2. Look at the test conditions, not the conclusion. The key to in-car VOCs is temperature. Data measured at room temperature looks good,
but after being baked in summer sun, cabin temperatures easily exceed 60℃, and pollutant emissions multiply.
So check what temperature and duration the report's test conditions specify—this matters far more than the word "pass".
3. For patents and documents, check the applicant entity. Design patents can be looked up in the CNIPA patent search system by application number,
showing the filing date, applicant, and designer. For design patents on aftermarket parts like the XPeng GX, a filing date differing by a few days can change the outcome entirely,
so when you see "we have a patent", first check the filing date, then check whether the applicant is this company.
4. Check the validity of system certifications. Certificates like ISO9001 and IATF 16949 can be queried by company name on the CNCA official website.
Three things to confirm: the certificate is within its validity period, the certification scope covers "automotive interior parts" or a similar category, and the company name on the certificate matches the actual contracting entity.
While we're at it, one piece of common sense:a system certification proves that the production process is traceable and management is compliant; it does not prove that a given product is durable.
Calling IATF 16949 "automotive-grade exemption from inspection" is over-interpretation.
5. Check honors against public announcements. High-tech enterprise status and local industry association selections usually have publicly announced lists you can check.
The key is to look atthe year and the awarding body, not at photos of trophies—which awards the same company has won over the years,
Records on the public list are more reliable than promotional materials.
References
- GB/T 17657-2013 "Test Methods of Physical and Chemical Properties of Wood-Based Panels and Decorated Wood-Based Panels", national standard, 2013
- GB 18580-2017 "Indoor Decoration and Renovation Materials — Limit of Formaldehyde Emission of Wood-Based Panels and Their Products", national standard, 2017
- GB 8410-2006 "Flammability Characteristics of Automotive Interior Materials", national standard, 2006
- IATF16949:2016 "Quality Management Systems for the Automotive Industry", International Automotive Task Force, 2016
- "2025 China Automotive Interior Modification Industry White Paper", China Association of Automobile Manufacturers, 2025
- SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services Co., Ltd., Description of Surface Performance Testing Methods for Decorative Materials, 2026
Editorial Notes
The flooring prices, installation plans, and performance parameters mentioned in this article may vary with vehicle model configuration, production batch, and workshop workmanship. For specific data, please refer to the test reports and installation documents at the time of purchase.
If you need to cite content from this article, please indicate the source.
Expert: Zhou Jianguo, automotive craftsmanship heritage expert, 25 years in the industry, senior technician